The FW 2016-17 collection celebrates Replay’s 35th anniversary, ranging from heritage to contemporary to futuristic. Contamination is the watchword: of styles, materials, processes, functions and often even genders. Heritage is revisited with denim, leather, check, fringes and shirts, while leveraging on cutting-edge laser- and denim Thermo+ technology. An eco-friendly ethos inspires Duckfree down coats and Waterzero jeans.
Tailoring is de-structured, basics reveal a careful eye to details, and the passion for hand-made pieces remains as strong as ever. A collection rich in crossovers and surprises, often revealing deeply intense research and design. The result is a harmonic melting pot that embraces the brand’s heritage, its biker roots, contemporary urban style, athleisure and sporty trends, as well as more glam and military notes, and the stellar heights of the galaxy constellation.
For him, a less rugged, more contemporary biker profile, to step out in the city, blended with hints of military and sporty styles. Here, leather, studs, laser-cut denim, checked details and aggressive prints are combined with bomber jackets, camouflage, military greens and technical fabrics. And on the more active side, with parkas, reversible down coats, neoprene, acetate, maxi zips and thermo-taping. Expressed in hues which are powdery rather than full, with a vintage feel. On a more glamorous side, tailoring is reviewed towards a definition of new casual – smarter, urban, more relaxed. Featuring low-crotch chinos, blazers and de-structured overcoats, clean-lined shirts with microprints, knitwear and clean-cut tees. Wool and woollen cloth, gabardine, jacquard and herringbone. Tones of black, grey and royal blue.
Graphics on tees range from skulls, swords and chains with biker appeal to witty quips, from microprint tattoos to gigantic animals, and even the nerdy universe of mathematical formulae, aliens and astronauts. Fits are slightly shorter, to be worn comfortably untucked, while pants are slim and low-crotch.
FOCUS ON: Shirts with resized checks, complete with suede elbow patches. A two-button leather blazer with a steel foil layer inside creating a marked crinkle effect. Another bomber jacket in super-soft drummed matelassé faux leather, worn under a military-style parka. Long-haired alpaca knitwear. A biker jacket with a hand-printed back featuring a brushstroke effect with a tactile texture. A leather-effect stretch denim jacket with bomber collar. A raw-cut woollen parka jacket and an oversized herringbone coat. A leather aviator jacket with fur collar and a camouflage parka.
For her, it’s all about volumes, fabric mixes and luxury processes, marking out the oscillations between glam sport and urban biker, boho and sartorial androgyny, smart athleisure and galaxy projections. According to the tenets of sport luxury, active-wear shapes and designs are matched with glamorous materials and processes. Thus sweatshirts, T-shirts and maxi dresses are combined with lace, matelassé faux leather patches, sequins, maxi zips, fringes, lurex and passementerie. Fabrics are lightweight and semi-transparent, while faux leather is seen in jogging and basketball pants. The heritage biker is synonymous with leather, laser-cut denim and aggressive tees. A more bohemian spirit is seen in faux-sheepskin outerwear, woollen ponchos, long fringes and jacquard alpaca knitwear. Meanwhile the appeal of androgynous tailoring shows in low-crotch chinos, overcoats, dresses and shirts in light fabrics, while not forgetting the heritage check proposed in overcoats, maxi skirts, dresses and blouses: from crêpe to wool. Military influences with a looser, shorter fit go with parkas, bomber jackets and sleeveless jackets.
T-shirts play on pleating and processing: leather effects, lamination, sequins and precious iridescent caviar beads. Vintage rock prints, slogans, galaxy motifs, mathematical formulae, micro polka dots and arrows. The colour palette speaks of blacks, blues, greys, rust, camel, military green, touches of pink, fluo green, red and fuchsia.
FOCUS ON: A contrived leather biker jacket with a draped flounce at the bottom and passementerie on the collar or one with writing hand-painted on the back. Two jumpsuits, one in a seventies style with neutral tones and gold passementerie profiling, the other zipped, in a pure work-wear style. A checked coat with a shawl neck and leather-fringed edges. Also checked is the woollen maxi skirt. The seventies overcoat is again maxi, with its double breast and galaxy lining. There are two leather jackets: one with biker-style ribbing, the other with all-over studs. Another leather jacket, this time in blue, features a faux fur collar. A bomber jacket, in a choice of lasered geometrical inlaid sleeves, a floral imprimé design, or reversible, nylon matt on the outside, lurex on the inside.
Denim goes artisanal and hand-made with the Maestro capsule collection, combining advanced technology, intense shades of blue and black, tears, ties, creasing and crinkles, as well as clean chic.
Blue denim for her is clean and chic. Elegant jeans distinguished by their extremely soft touch and clean look, faithful to the original rinse, proposed in a range of fits from skinny to boy, with minimal accessories and an iridescent button. Black denim instead speaks of localized polished and leather effects, including a biker version. Meanwhile, dermacolor on blue denim with a black weft and skin tones applied to the finished garment. Finally, the Maestro capsule collection. For her, jacquard macro rips, hand-embroidering with crystals, lurex-silk blends, skin-tone faux leather, repairs and hand-embroidered gold dots.
For him, blue denim has a cleaner look, with a focus on over-dyeing, over-coating, localized abrasions and whiskering, combined to create a strong vintage appeal. Also accentuated is the shades of black style with ties, semi-leather effect, rips, breaks and biker panels. Forever dark is a special indigo colour that will not fade, and thus maintains its dark tone. The luxury of Maestro proposes internal patches for men, taped plasters, mending, laser abrasions and sanding, and even washed five-pocket jeans that have been destroyed and re-stitched.
Finally Thermo+, Waterzero and Hyperflex, representing the cutting-edge of denim technology. Thermo+ heralds the future, with a denim that can maintain body temperature and reduce heat dispersion. Thanks to the Thermocool fibre woven into the fabric, it increases the sensation of warmth by 20%. This denim is proposed in three different washes for three models for women and six for men.
The experience with Waterzero and Hyperflex continues. The former, in a men-only version, focuses on the production of water-saving washes, while the latter has been re-issued in a Blue Black Edition with a new indigo cast and final black spraying.